Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Year's End, Berlin's End, Begin Again


Yes, all right, I'm feeling more than a little nostalgic lately.

The thing about timing things such that the year is ending just at the same time that you're uprooting your entire life is that it makes everything feel really rather cataclysmic!

I was in the supermarket today (some of the employees were wearing party hats – aw!) and even the sight of the rows of jam-filled doughnuts in the bakery (it's a new year's tradition in this part of Germany, with one unlucky person biting into the one in each batch that's filled with mustard, a practice that reminds me of the lucky toy or coin hidden in a king cake on Twelfth Night or Mardi Gras...except, you know, less pleasant, 'cause it's mustard) made me sigh with fondness for dear, strange, often exasperating, yet entirely familiar Germany.

In an odd way, I hope that leaving will make me love Berlin even more, and that coming back to visit will allow me to just 100% enjoy this place, rather than trying to enjoy the cool stuff about it while also being bogged down in the frustrations of daily life. Who can say (since I never can seem to plan my life more than a couple months ahead), but my idea is definitely that Berlin will continue to be part of my life, a place that I can always visit back to and that will always feel at least in some way like home.

And Iceland. I want Iceland to continue being part of my life, too. (In my head, I've been working on a goofy metaphor wherein the US is my family and always will be, Germany is my friend and housemate of so many years that we know all each other's quirks, but Iceland is my (not-so) secret crush, the one that gives me butterflies in my stomach even just to say its name.)

Oh, by the way, here's how empty the apartment looked in the end – yesterday, when I handed over the keys. Looking very pretty and tidy and clean, if I do say so myself! (Germany, possibly the only country where you have to invest more time and money and energy in an apartment when you move out than when you move in.)


Feeling nostalgic, I also took a bunch of pictures of the rest of the building, and some silly self-portraits in the cool mirrors in the entryway – it's one of these gorgeous turn-of-the-last-century, art-deco-y classic Berlin apartment buildings.


Happy new year, everyone! What a year it's been. May the next one be just as exciting, but with way fewer of the terrible things going on in the wider world. Once again, I'm going to close out the year by quoting Josh Ritter, because I really think he's got the right life attitude in so very much of what he does:

I'm inside with my friends
We build fires and pretend
That the night could just bend on forever
While outside in the frost
Are the wolves and the lost
And we sing to the dogs or whoever

Singing don't let me into this year with an empty heart
With an empty heart
Don't let me into this year with an empty heart


Music: A Year in Review

Last year, I got inspired to write a "top 5" list of the books I'd read; this year, even though I wrote and read a lot (I read 38 books this year! I'm pleased about that!), I think I'm going to reflect on music instead.

Here, in no particular order, is a completely inconclusive and off-the-cuff list of just a few of the musicians I loved discovering this year:

Svavar Knútur! His music certainly wasn't new to me, but this was the year I also got to know him as a friend, while hanging out in Iceland. He's an awesome dude, with a sometimes truly wicked sense of humor and an incongruously sweet voice. I can never pick just one song of his, but here are two that have been in my head lately: Wanderlust (gets in my head whenever I think about leaving; also, before his Berlin concert this fall, I asked him if he was going to play it, and when he did, he dedicated it to me!) and Clementine (sweet and sad and yet somehow the tiniest bit hopeful, too).

Halla Norðfjörð: Another Iceland discovery; she's a friend of Elín Ey (a musician I deeply admire and was deeply thrilled to get to know a bit while I was in Iceland). I met Halla in Elín's kitchen, and only later discovered how wonderful her music is and how captivating her voice. Check out her title track, The Bridge.

Lucie Thorne: She played at one of my friend Sam's Sofa Salon concerts, and I fell in love. Try Till the Season.

Laura Marling: I certainly can't claim to have first discovered this year, but her cover of Bruce Springsteen's Dancing in the Dark, oh my god.

Markéta Irglová most certainly was not new to me this year, either, but she was a big theme to my year (we almost got to meet...so many times!) and this song is one I sang to myself as I walked around Reykjavík in the sunlight, thinking about the future: Only Love Is Real.

• Honorable mentions: I periodically rediscover Rufus Wainwright, and love him even more each time. Also, is this video of his not the sexiest thing ever? Ásgeir Trausti is yet another fantastic Icelandic find! I enjoy him so much, I bought his album in both English and Icelandic. A friend pointed me to this song by Vienna Teng – isn't it lovely? And of course I never get tired of Glen Hansard, and I love how he leads me to other musicians I might otherwise never have gotten around to – like when he covered Drive All Night. And then there's my friend/acquaintance/admiree Elín's new band with her two sisters, they of the family heritage in beautiful voices and gorgeous harmonies. Individually, all three of them do quiet, acoustic stuff, but together they're a super-hip techno outfit called Sísý Ey (named after their grandmother!), who wear wild outfits and dance around to the beat and just totally own the stage. Their big single is Ain't Got Nobody.

• And it's not music, but John Finnemore's stunningly talented writing continued to make his radio comedy Cabin Pressure one of the best things on the airwaves anywhere. The long, long awaited final episode just aired last week.

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Moving Progress


YES. YES YES YES YES.

Empty apartment achieved! Here it is on the last night before the painter started work, with nothing left but two boxes I then shipped to the US the next morning, plus a mattress that's now being stored with my neighbor.

YES.


Monday, November 24, 2014

Moving Woes


Oh, man. Still a lot to do.


This is after I've already sold most of the furniture (why my clothes now live on the sofa and armchair, instead of in the wardrobe, and why my bed is a spare mattress on the floor), but shows the stuff I still have to sort into the boxes labeled TAKE – SHIP – STORE.

I guess it doesn't actually look like that much. Feels like much, though, since pretty much everything piled there is Important Documents that need to be pored over individually!

(In a weird way, though, I kind of recommend moving continents and having to jettison almost everything you own. Very freeing! Makes me want to pare it down even further, get that good feeling of putting on a backpack that contains everything you need, and just keep moving...)

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Europe, How I Haven't Known Thee

Speaking of East and West...

Now that I'm moving away from Europe after 8+ years (um...I have mentioned that, right?) I thought it would be fun to make myself a map, a visual representation of where in Europe I have and haven't been. I've certainly traveled a lot in my time here, but I know there are also a lot of places I haven't been (and still want to go!)

But it wasn't until I sat down and colored in this map that I realized, wow. Look at that stark divide. I knew there was a lot of Eastern Europe I hadn't been to, but sheesh, the difference is more pronounced than I realized. In Eastern Europe, I've been to Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Slovenia and Croatia, which sounds like a lot, until you see this map:


Look at that dividing line, cutting straight through Eastern Europe! Okay, big trip to not-yet-visited countries coming up in my future sometime, hopefully.

For anyone who cares (which is presumably...just me?), here's where I have and haven't been in Europe:

HAVE BEEN: Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Czech Republic, Denmark (including/plus the Faroe Islands), Finland, France, Georgia, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey, the United Kingdom (including all parts: England, Scotland, Northern Ireland and Wales). That's 29. (Counting only sovereign states, not counting as separate the autonomous countries within other countries, like the Faroe Islands.)

HAVEN'T BEEN: Albania, Andorra, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Estonia, (Kazakhstan), Macedonia, Malta, Moldova, Monaco, Montenegro, Romania, Russia, San Marino, Serbia, Ukraine, Vatican City. That's 21, though that includes numerous micro-states that most people never visit, as well as some countries that are mostly Asia, not Europe. Taking out those, I guess it would be only 15 or 16. (Depending on whether you count Russia!)

Monday, November 10, 2014

25th Anniversary of the Fall of the Wall

Yesterday, November 9, marked 25 years since an East German party official fumbled a press conference where he was meant to announce that a (somewhat) eased travel regulation for East German citizens would soon be implemented, allowing people to cross the border if they first obtained the proper permission; instead he accidentally declared that, as far as he knew, the border was open, to everyone, effective immediately.

This led to masses of East Germans gathering at Berlin Wall checkpoints, after they heard the news on (technically forbidden, but everybody watched it) West German TV. Which led to the East German border guards, not yet even informed of the new travel regulation, having no idea how to react as more and more thousands of people arrived, demanding to be let through. Which led to one East German officer making the decision to defy orders and lift the checkpoint barrier.

Which led to the fall of the Berlin Wall, and history as we know it.

That first fateful border crossing occurred at the bridge on Bornholmer Strasse, just a couple miles from where I live in Berlin, and I spent both this 25th anniversary and the 20th anniversary five years ago there. Five years ago, the celebration involved a massive line of larger-than-a-person dominoes that were then ceremoniously toppled; this year, the city erected a wall of illuminated helium balloons, which were then released into the air on the night of November 9.

They didn't illuminate the entire 155-kilometer (96-mile) length of the former Berlin Wall, but they did do a decent stretch of the part of it that ran through the city, from Bornholmer Strasse in the north, through the Brandenburg Gate and over to the Oberbaumbrücke in the east. Here's a map:


Unfortunately, I didn't think to bring my camera along two evenings ago, when I was just strolling along up close with the lights near Bornholmer Strasse, so I don't have pictures of that. But seriously, anyone who's interested only needs to search online for "Lichtgrenze" ("light border," the name of the installation) and there are about a gazillion beautiful pictures out there. What I've got are a couple shots from last night, when the balloons were released.

A small section of the lights through the middle of the Mauerpark, a park created along a section of the former wall:


Balloons being released into the sky above the Mauerpark:


People watching from atop a wall...though not the Wall:


All in all, I found it moving to be here for the anniversary and its celebrations. I'm glad I stayed in Berlin this long, to have the privilege to be here for this!

Thursday, October 30, 2014

Budapest!


Well, I only had a little under three days in Budapest (and in usual fashion, I spent at least some of that time berating myself for not getting out more and doing more) but looking back, I see that in that time I managed to:

meet up with friends for dinner (the Hungarian travel friends I met in the mountains in the north of Georgia!), attend a really big, fun board games night at a cool bar, see the big synagogue, see the castle (and the view of the city from up on the hill), walk along the Danube, ride Tram #2 along the Danube, cross the bridge to Margitsziget (Margaret Island) and wander there in the autumnal falling leaves and sit by the fountain that's bizarrely synchronized to rock music, see Andrássy Boulevard and Heroes Square (weird, too pompous, also what is that guy doing with that snake he's holding aloft?) and Városliget Park, see Parliament (huge!!), wander through the Central Market (so much paprika and garlic!), relax in the hot pool and cold pool and sauna and steam room at the Rudas Baths, hang out at the wonderful Cat Café (twice!), take a peek at couple of the famous "ruin pubs," eat pogacsa, eat langos, drink different kinds of palinka (fruit schnapps), learn that the Hungarian word for peach is "barack" and chuckle together with Hungarians about US president Peach Obama, eat palacsinta (which, in turns out, are basically synonymous with crepes, blintzes AND bliny – mind blown!), eat "something with poppy seeds" (another must-have recommended by a Hungarian friend), and discover a new favorite chocolate bar in Túro Rudi – chocolate around a filling of cheese curd (oh, Hungary, you and your "cheese curd" – sounds so gross, but is so delicious!).

Here are pictures:

Budapest

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Pictures: More of Tbilisi

Some last sights and thoughts from Tbilisi – meals and friends, day trips and markets full of delicious fruit, and a visit to the school where Lisa teaches:

GEORGIA: More of Tbilisi

Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Pictures: Kazbegi (a.k.a. Stepantsminda)

Stunning days in Kazbegi (also known as Stepantsminda), high in the Greater Caucasus Mountains, just a few kilometers from the Russian border. Stunning. Did I mention stunning?

GEORGIA: Kazbegi

Monday, October 27, 2014

Location Migration

Left Tbilisi with a strange and almost tearful feeling in my stomach – I got very used to hanging around with Lisa, living in her life! It occurs to me only now that I don't think the two of us had ever spent so long in the same place before; even in all these years I've been in Germany, we've always lived in different cities, and for most of that time on opposite sides of the country. As always, her presence was good for me – we're such opposites, in some ways, but all the right ways. Note to future self: Make the effort to acquire a housemate, wherever I next live; it helps to keep me more balanced.

From Tbilisi, a five-hour bus ride through a dark, rainy night to Kutaisi, where the budget airline flies. Well, when I say five-hour ride, I mean four hours driving plus one hour to stop so the driver could hang out with folks he knows at a small restaurant somewhere along the road. Georgia!

On the ride to Kutaisi, linked back up with Tibor and Gabriella, two Hungarian travelers I'd met in the mountains in Kazbegi, in the far north of Georgia; we met and hiked together in Kazbegi, and quickly realized we were going to be on the same flight to Budapest a few days later! (I also ran into André and Lee, the other travelers I befriended in Kazbegi, again on the street in Tbilisi on my next-to-last day. I swear, Georgia's not actually that small!)

It was nice having friends to arrive at the airport with, stand in line to check in with, board the plane with. I'm so used to traveling alone, it actually feels strange and surprising to sit on an airplane next to someone I know.

Now I'm in Budapest, because it made for a convenient way station on the way back to Berlin, and in all these years in Europe, I'd never been. Yesterday: wandering parks and streets, enjoying the wonderful Cat Café (cats! everywhere!), then dinner and conversation with Tibor and Gabriella. About to go out again and keep checking out as much of the city as I can in my limited time.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Cultural differences: I'm writing this while eating breakfast in the hostel kitchen. The kitchen's been mostly empty so far, but just now a guy wandered in, leaned in close to peer at my laptop screen and asked with friendly curiosity, "What are you doing?" And then seemed surprised that I was a bit taken aback by him peering at a stranger's computer without asking.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Pictures from Kazbegi/Stepantsminda and my last days in Tbilisi coming soon!

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Georgian Road Trip

Four-hour taxi ride to Tbilisi with seven people and a chicken scrabbling around in a box in the back seat; on the side of a mountain, where drivers pass each other madly around blind curves, a herd of cows ambling along at cow-pace, taking up an entire lane of a two-lane road. Cars passing cars passing cows.

Yup, must be Georgia.

Pictures: Batumi

Beautiful days on the Black Sea Coast:

GEORGIA: Batumi + Gonio

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Pictures: David Gareja and Sighnaghi

A monastery on the foggy, breathtaking expanse that makes up the Georgia-Azerbaijan border, an unexpected expat café in the middle of the steppe, a several-day jaunt into wine-making country, an outing with colleagues and many feasts. Days in David Gareja and Sighnaghi:

GEORGIA: David Gareja + Sighnaghi

Monday, October 13, 2014

Pictures: Tbilisi

Here's an album of pictures from my first week in Tbilisi! Good friends, cute cats, steep hills, gorgeous views, good food, all that sort of thing.

GEORGIA: Tbilisi

(Pictures from David Gareja monastery and the town of Sighnaghi will eventually follow...)

Life in Translation

The days I spent in Sighnaghi – a very small, very picturesque town perched on a hill in Kakheti, a wine-making region in eastern Georgia – were the first time in my life I truly wished I could speak Russian. I don't think I'd ever been in a place where Russian, not English, was an absolute given as the lingua franca that everyone speaks, fluently. It was pretty awesome! Even if it meant I couldn't talk to people...

("Why not speak Russian?" the guesthouse proprietor lamented at me more than once. I thought her English was perfectly adequate to the task, actually, but it was clear that her Russian is fluent – and if mine had been too, we could have had a conversation.)

The guesthouse and the family's home were one and the same, and both guests and family gathered all together at long tables in the dining room, so you couldn't help but fall into conversation with people. Over the course of my time there, I talked to an enthusiastic young Russian couple, a mother and daughter from Kazakhstan, a mixed group of Polish and Israeli travelers who hadn't known each other before but had simply been collecting new members in minibuses and at bus stops as they traveled along, a group of Israelis I played cards with, another group of Israelis I also played cards with, a Russian journalist from Yakutsk (coldest city in the world!), a couple of Germans who (unfortunately) fulfilled my stereotypes of German negativity, two fun young Polish women, some Slovenes who I was pleased to be able to tell that I'd actually been to the town they're from, another group of Polish women that included a woman who was celebrating her birthday so we all toasted to her, the Georgian relatives of the guesthouse owners... I'm probably forgetting a bunch of people. And of course Amanda, an American acquaintance and one of only two people I knew in coming to Georgia – she was a Russian professor back when I was at Oberlin, and now lives here!

The Russian journalist, Alexey, spoke quite good English, I thought, but whenever he wasn't sure of a word he would whip out his smartphone and type into some translation app he had, then show me the screen, which was kind of an amusing way to have a conversation! At one point (we were talking about my last name, which to my surprise he recognized instantly as Jewish – according to him, it's a common name in Russia!) he was asking me if my ancestors were Russian, and I said no, Eastern European but as far as I know not originally Russian, and he typed something into his app that came out in English as "All of Europe was Russian." Wonder if that's actually what he meant to say or not!

And today, back in Tbilisi now, I was in a little shop trying to find out if they sold envelopes (envelopes here are sold individually and thus very overpriced – the same way I remember bandaids being sold in pharmacies in India!); I did print out several pages of basic Georgian phrases at the start of this trip, but those phrases don't include "envelope," and I wasn't able to explain it in mime, either. So the woman in the shop called an acquaintance of hers who spoke English and handed me the phone so I could tell him what I wanted and he could translate. Now that's service!


Photos coming soon, I promise.

Friday, October 10, 2014

Georgian Modern Dance!

Lisa's neighbors, who I now firmly believe to be the fount of all things wise and wonderful (they also managed to charge Lisa's cell phone, when neither of her own chargers worked!), told us about a Georgian dance performance. Lisa really wanted to go, so I picked up tickets while she was at work. (And because this is Georgia, we ended up with third-row seats for a stunningly reasonable price.)

The performance was AMAZING. Modern dance, but with unmistakeable traditional Georgian elements worked in (like those big, dramatic jumping moves the men do). Endless gorgeous costume changes, music that fused traditional instruments with modern sounds. Oh, and a digeridoo. The whole effect was fantastic. I can't do it justice in words (and of course I didn't take pictures during the show), so instead here's a picture of Lisa and me inside the beautiful Rustaveli Theatre:


I'm out in rural eastern Georgia with very, very limited internet access (I finally found this one café with wifi and fell upon it eagerly, to catch up on a few things), so I have lots more pictures to share, but they'll have to wait until I'm back in Tbilisi.

Friday, October 3, 2014

Juice from Ukraine and Other Observations

Today at breakfast, I discovered that Lisa's carton of orange juice was from Ukraine. (The Cyrillic letters including an "i" with a dot on it gave it away, because Russian doesn't have an "i" with a dot, but Ukrainian does.)

It's fascinating to me to be in this place on the border between cultures and geographies, in between Europe and Asia. If I were in Thailand, say, I would simply expect everything to be different. Different fruits, different foods, and entirely different sources for where those things come from. But here, even though we're at the far end of Europe, lots of products in the supermarket are from Germany. Or presumably from Russia to the north of here or Turkey to the south. And then this Ukrainian juice! Easily transported here across the Black Sea, Lisa pointed out, so Ukraine actually makes good sense as a source of random grocery items.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~

As is so often the case, this is a trip with multiple purposes; this is both "yay, interesting new country to explore!" and "boy, better use this month to get a serious start on researching and applying to grad schools, because otherwise it's going to be too late to meet the deadlines."

As is also, unfortunately, so often the case, I've been being really hard on myself. You know: I'm not going out and fully enjoying this great opportunity of being in Georgia, but I'm also not being effective at getting things done, what am I even doing with my time, etc. etc. (Was feeling this especially in the first few days. Am not very good at remembering that it's normal not to have gotten much done yet in a just a few days in a new place.)

After spending one day making some good progress on grad school research and the next day finally getting back to work on my maybe-it-will-someday-be-a-novel, I'm feeling considerably calmer. The trick is to hold onto that calm enough to keep staying focused and keep getting things done...

~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Speaking of German things, today is the Day of German Unity (reunification of East and West Germany, 24 years ago) and Lisa and I are invited to a reception at the German embassy, with the ambassador. The perks of being part of a small expat community in a small land. (I also recently met the Icelandic ambassador in Berlin, speaking of small countries!)

Thursday, October 2, 2014

Continuing Stray Observations

Accidentally bought what looked like it was going to be cherry-flavored yogurt, but instead was cherry-flavored cottage cheese. Very interesting. (Grocery shopping in another alphabet is always an adventure! The first time I tried to buy milk here, I ended up giving up and walking away without getting anything, because there were about 40 options and none of them made sense to me.)

I went and bought bread from the bakery woman again (a little basement corner redolent with the scent of wood smoke, from a little round wood-burning stove) and again she cackled with delight at my attempts to ask for bread in Georgian. Then I think she tried to tell me I was beautiful (Lisa said people here give compliments all the time, and her students are always telling her how very, very beautiful and smart and wonderful she is), but I'm only guessing, because I don't know the word. Then I said "madloba" (thank you) and she was super impressed. Well, come on, that much I can manage...

People smoke indoors here, unabashedly.

Just getting to the other side of the street can be quite the production, involving first finding then traversing a series of pedestrian underpasses, because traffic is mad and there aren't any traffic lights, so crossing the street itself is not really an option. These underpasses become basically small, underground shopping malls, lined with miniature stores selling clothes or food or electronics.

Oh, goodness, and these uneven streets of scattered stone, and the half-broken sidewalks, with women walking around on them in their super fancy clothes and little high heels. I don't know how they do it, and manage to stay both upright and not covered in dust.

There's a Georgian appetizer that involves wrapping one kind of cheese (cottage-cheese-ish, with herbs) in another kind of cheese (very thin, salty sheets of a mozzarella-like cheese). Cheese in cheese. Hee! Good fun.

The pigeons are unusually small and pretty. Maybe they're doves?

Acquaintances

In this city where I've only even met a few people so far, I keep running into acquaintances. Yesterday, it was Lisa's neighbor – she teaches German at the Goethe Institute, and I was there to return some teaching materials Lisa had borrowed from the Goethe Institute library, so not such a surprise. Just now, though, I ran into a friend of Lisa's, another teacher, when we simply passed each other on the street.

I like that. I liked it in Reykjavík, too, that it was a city small enough that I'd walk into a café and see somebody I knew (even though I only knew a few people). I love Berlin and will always love Berlin, but I'm definitely feeling ready to live in a small city or a college town again, in a country where people out and about in public actually talk to each other.

Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Georgia's Always on My My My My My My My My My Mind

(Yes, Beatles pun/quote. Sorry...)

I'm in the Republic of Georgia!

First impressions:

Tbilisi (the capital) is definitely a study in contrasts. The neighborhood where my friend Lisa lives is a warren of twisting cobblestones streets (or streets of no stones at all) that feels very much like a village, even though it's just steps away from one of Tbilisi's major streets. These little side streets do feel like a developing country, with their broken sidewalks and hardscrabble corner stores with dusty signs out front, but the main streets remind me more of Spain or something.

There was a smell in the air, my first day, that was fresh and enticing, strangely different and familiar all at once. Lisa couldn't smell it, since she's already been living here a while. I couldn't smell it after that first day, either.

Grape vines simply drape over everything. And these are real grapes, bursting with flavor, not the supermarket kind. Here's Lisa's street:


People make their own wine. Lisa's wonderful neighbors invited us over to see. They'd bought bags and bags and bags of freshly harvested grapes at the market – the entire garage floor was full of them – and were tipping them into this huge press:


Georgia's legendary hospitality is just as tremendous as I'd always heard. The same neighbors invited us over for a dinner that was an absolute feast. Meat, yes, but also a bunch of delicious vegetable dishes, and wine, wine, wine. (Homemade, goes without saying!) So I got to see the Georgian tradition of toasting: The head of the table makes specific toasts, in a prescribed order, on such themes as peace, loved ones who have died, parents. Everyone lifts their glasses, and once the toastmaster has made the initial toast to a specific theme, others can add what they would like to say on the same topic. It also functions as a way for strangers to get to know each other, Lisa's neighbor Khatuna told us.

Lisa's neighbors speak German, so add Georgia to the surprisingly long list of countries where my German has proven more useful than I have any right to expect. In general, lots of people here speak at least two out of English, German and Russian, if not more languages as well. When I went to the theater box office to get tickets for a dance performance this weekend, the woman working there was older and didn't speak English, so I asked another woman behind me in line to help me; she spoke English to me, then turned around and spoke Russian to the woman behind the counter! And the young woman at the café Lisa and I went to yesterday evening spoke English with us, but then when she heard us speaking German, she got excited and switched to that.

I arrived here speaking zero words of Georgian and only knowing 3 or 4 letters of the alphabet. Whoops. While waiting for my luggage, I quickly memorized "hello" ("gamarjoba"), so I could say it to the taxi driver Lisa had sent to pick me up. I was annoyed with myself, the first day here, because though I'd learned both "hello" and "thank you," I couldn't ever seem to keep both in my head at once – so "hello" or "thank you" were both options, but never both at once. Which was frustrating. But then I remembered that I'd only been here one day. Now I've been here a few days, and I know a handful of words (hello, thank you, goodbye, yes, no, I, bread, coffee, street...) and probably close to half the alphabet. The Georgian script is unrelated to anything else, so mnemonic devices are definitely my friends in this endeavor!

Yesterday, Lisa and I went to a café nearby with our learning-Georgian materials, and had a little study session:


I learned "bread" ("poo-ree," but with the difficult unaspirated "p" that sounds almost like a "b") because I walked into a little tiny basement-level bakery on Lisa's street, run by an elderly woman who definitively would not speak English, and realized I hadn't yet looked up the word for bread. She cackled with delight at my fumbling attempts to read it off of my printed out sheets of vocabulary, and I felt rather pleased to have been the hilarious highlight of her day. We succeeded with one-word sentences and hand gestures.

In restaurants, too, people are understandably proud of their wine and want you to try it, so much so that they'll bring you a glass on the house – that's happened to me twice already in my few days here, once over a meal in restaurant, and once when I'd simply ordered a hot chocolate in a café.

Speaking of hot chocolate... It's the real stuff here, melted down from actual chocolate. Mmmm.

A glass of wine and a view out over the city:


Traffic here is horrendous; the driving style is the same as I'm familiar with in other developing countries where I've traveled, which is to say, conducted with complete disregard for either safety or reality. Think I'll take the train whenever I can...

On the other side of the coin, though, the city itself is incredibly safe. Police are around all the time, just kind of keeping up a reassuring presence, and Lisa says she walks around alone at any time of the day or night with no worries. Georgia apparently managed within the space of just a few years to turn itself around into one of the world's safest countries.

Cats! Cats everywhere. Cats cats cats. Being adorable and savvy and surprisingly okay-looking, healthwise, given that they're street cats. Here are two visitors at the café where I went today:


Wednesday, September 24, 2014

A Good Year, a Year of Peace...

L'shanah tovah, everyone! Happy Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish new year.

Despite having a frantic, panicking-before-a-big-trip sort of day, I was lucky enough to still get a Rosh Hashanah challah from the Jewish bakery down the street, when I dropped in there just before they closed. I'm going to imagine I'm breaking this bread with all of my friends and family out there. May you and all of us have a sweet new year.


Tuesday, September 23, 2014

A Child's Geography

Yesterday I was at a German friend's birthday celebration, which included her two kids, ages 7 and 5. (I arrived just as the earlier party shift of parents-with-young-kids was leaving, and my friend apologized that her birthday party had turned into more of a "children's birthday party" because it was pretty much just lots and lots of kids running around. Cute, though!)

I happened to see a Jacob's ladder on a shelf, and picked it up to look at it, because that's a toy I haven't seen in ages. My friend's daughter (7) came running over to show me how it worked, so I asked her what the toy is called in German, since I only know it in English.

Surprised, she asked, "Were you born in England?" (Which is a very reasonable guess!)

"No, in the US," I said. (Having this conversation in German, of course.) And then because that didn't seem to mean anything to her, I tried, "In America?"

She considered me. "Did you live in France?" (Because her mother works on a lot of German-French collaborations, and has many French friends, so that's the kids' frame of reference for foreignness.)

"No, in America. In the United States."

She cocked her head at me. "Is that even further away than France?"

. . . . .

(The five-year-old son also proudly informed me that he's started learning English in school, and asked if he could have my phone number so he can call me and speak English, once he's learned a bit more!)

Thursday, September 11, 2014

The Next Adventure

I did it. I just sent in my letter giving notice that I'm ending my apartment lease as of the end of this year. It's official. I'm moving on to the next adventure, whatever that may be. It's good and SCARY.

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Photos from Reykjavík

Pictures from the last part of my trip, including:

Delightfully managing to cross paths with German friends passing through Reykjavík, even though we hadn't managed to be in touch beforehand to make a plan (yes – it's the kind of town where you can just go downtown and expect to find the person you're looking for sooner or later); staying with my wonderful friends Arndís and Koosha (who I first met at the Rauðasandur Festival), who invited me into their home and told me to stay as long as I liked; more wonderful concerts of my favorite musicians; getting to be friends with my favorite musicians; Reykjavík's wonderful Gay Pride; hiking on the Snæfellsnes peninsula; hiking Mount Esja, Reykjavík's neighboring mountain; lots of cats; and Culture Night, another of Reykjavík's biggest festivals, which fittingly ended up being my last night in town. So many wonderful days and memories – I've tried to catch a little slice of them here:

ÍSLAND: Return to Reykjavík

Saturday, August 23, 2014

Culture Night by Day

It's Reykjavík Culture Night! Which, oddly, takes place during the day.

So far I have: eaten a waffle in someone's backyard in a residential neighborhood, sipped Turkish coffee while listening to live Turkish music in the street, watched young folks grooving to techno music exactly as if they were in a club...except it was in broad daylight in the middle of the street, sampled some lovely iced tea being offered by some sort of tea club, dodged lots of little kids darting through the street, marveled at Reykjavík for having yet another all-out delightful whole-town-involved festival, had another waffle in another residential neighborhood (waffles are a theme – and they always come with whipped cream and rhubarb sauce), watched a young boy and a man playing chess, and watched a guy in drag tell fortunes (using playing cards selected from a deck) for a tourist from Spain. About to head back out to catch some more music, including a friend's band.

My favorite event description, from the staggeringly long list of all the events happening around the city today:

Free hugs
Laugavegur 25
14:00 - 15:00 
This year marks the 6th year that Hlutverkasetur offers pedestrians free hugs at Reykjavík Culture Night. This event has been well received and we encourage people to come and get a hug. We offer short hugs, long hugs, hugs for one person or two and even group hugs. Come get a hug, it's guaranteed to cheer you up.

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Icelandic Politics (the Strange Version)

There's a new political party gaining popularity in Iceland, the "County Party." It's a single-issue group, its sole platform being that Iceland should give up its independence and become an overseas county of Norway.

Sounds like a silly joke, right? But everyone I've talked to about this is dead serious, saying they're sick of financial and political mismanagement, and of nothing much having changed after all, after the financial crisis of 2008.

Do they necessarily want to BE a part of Norway? (And do they even think Norway itself would want them?) No, of course not. But are they serious enough about the issues to vote for a joke party if that's what it takes to get the conversation started? Yeah, I think they are.

It's a strange position to hear espoused by people in such an independent nation. (And I can't help but wonder – would people still support the idea if the proposal were to become a county of Denmark, the country from which Iceland won its independence in 1944? Would that change how they felt about the prospect of being subsumed once again in a more powerful nation?)

As an outsider who doesn't know a whole lot, but has come to care a great deal about this country, I'll really be curious to see where this goes.

Reykjavík Politics (the Fun Version)

For four years, Reykjavík's mayor was a comedian who ran a joke campaign lampooning the political establishment in the wake of Iceland's catastrophic financial crash, but then accidentally got himself elected for real. By most accounts I've heard, he did a good job as mayor. Here's his awesome campaign video:


Some of my favorites among his joke campaign promises (I believe another one of his campaign promises was to break all of his promises) are "free towels in all Reykjavík swimming pools," "a drug-free parliament by 2020," "tollbooths on the border with Seltjarnarnes" [a tiny peninsula that's basically part of Reykjavík] and "economize – we only need one Santa!" [Icelandic tradition has thirteen "Yule Lads," which are a bit like Santa Claus, and they like to play up this weird Icelandic fact – "we have thirteen Santas!" – to foreigners.]

And of course, because this is tiny Reykjavík, when my friend Arndís was showing me this video, she pointed during one of the scenes of several people singing together and went, "Oh, that's our neighbor!"

Of course it is!

(Edited to add: Because this is Reykjavík, and it's awesome and ridiculously small, I just realized I have four Facebook friends in common with Jón Gnarr, the former mayor.)

In Iceland, Dreams Come True

These last couple weeks (since coming back to Reykjavík after my weeks of traveling around the country), I feel like I've just been hanging around doing a whole lot of nothing, nothing but 1) staying up way too late every night writing, 2) perpetually missing half the next day because I stayed up half the night and 3) flailing around being ineffective and stressed out about all the "things I have to do" even though, for goodness sake, I'm on extended vacation, what are all these things I think I "have to do"?

(Nota bene: Changing locations does not change one's fundamental personality. But I think I knew that already.)

But when I stop and really think about it, here are just some of the things that have in fact happened during that time:

• My wonderful friends Arndís and Koosha, who I got to know at the first of the music festivals I went to, invited me to come stay with them. As in, not just for a night or two, but for as long as I wanted. So all of a sudden I had not only a home in Reykjavík, but also instant awesome housemates to hang out with. Then they offered that I could stay on while they're away traveling for 10 days, to house-sit and look after their cats. So I extended my Iceland sojourn even longer than planned, and finally booked a return flight for August 25th. It'll have been two full months here by the time I leave.

• Three friends from Germany were passing through Reykjavík for one day on their way to a hiking trip in the West Fjords; because of various complications, we weren't able to reach each other by phone or email beforehand, so I just figured, all right, I'll go downtown and walk along the main street until we run into each other. And because this is Reykjavík, it worked!

• I saw the most stunningly beautiful rainbow I have every seen in my LIFE, and I'm telling you, I've seen a lot of rainbows. I stood there with tears running down my face, almost wondering if I was alive or in a dream.

• I reconnected with E., one of my favorite Icelandic musicians, when I went to another of her shows. She knew already I was a fan of hers because I'd gone to one of her concerts when I was in Reykjavík in the beginning of the trip; I'd requested a favorite song, one she hadn't played in a while, and she forgot the lyrics to the second verse and I was able to prompt her from the audience. And I guess that moment really impressed her, to have this person who'd come from so far away and yet knew all the words to her song, because this time she hailed me with great enthusiasm and a hug, and we chatted a bunch.

• At the same concert, which already featured two musicians I like, the two of them mentioned their friend who'd just arrived back to visit from Denmark; when the friend got up and also played a song at the end, I realized, OH, I know this musician! I've heard her stuff and I really like her too! Only in Iceland: You go for one favorite singer and end up accidentally getting three.

• Musician friend E. also invited me to a party at her house, a private party with just her circle of friends. (Yes...one of my favorite musicians invited me to a party at her house?!) They were all unbelievably welcoming to me, this random foreigner in their midst who couldn't follow along in all the conversations in Icelandic. Again and again, I have been floored by people's hospitality here.

• Gay Pride happened! Pride in Reykjavík is the most extraordinary thing, truly an all-encompassing, everybody-is-welcome event, a family festival as well as a day for celebrating LGBTQI pride in all its forms. Like the happiest small town parade you can imagine, with the addition of rainbows all over everything. It was glorious.

• I went away for a few days of hiking, a last bit of time in small-town Iceland and a last hurrah of hitchhiking with lovely people.

• I've also been getting to be friends with other-favorite-Icelandic-musician S., over the course of going to many of his concerts. He's thanked me many times for coming to his shows and bringing such positive energy. I also asked him if I could help out as a volunteer in any way for the Melodica Festival – a wonderful international singer-songwriter/acoustic music festival that started here in Reykjavík and is coming up at the end of August – and he said he'd include me when they finally sat down for a very, very belated planning meeting.

• After two full months of waffling and doubting myself, I finally dared: I wrote an email to one of the musicians I admire most in the world, who's not Icelandic but lives here now, and she wrote back. Who knows whether her schedule will actually end up allowing for it or not, but she suggested meeting up for coffee. (!!)

• As of today I'm part of the organizing committee for the Melodica Festival. The others, of course, have way, way, way more expertise about this particular festival, since they've been doing this for years and know all the ins and outs, but I'm able to bring in my organizing capabilities to help them get on top of the tasks that still need to be done, and that feels really good.

• Musician friend S. also wants to meet up, separately from the festival organizing, and ask for my input on how he can organize/manage his own music career better. (Finally, my organizational skills being put to use again for something other than obsessively over-managing my own life!)

• Musician friend E. is not great about responding to emails, but when I saw her at a concert today, she reiterated that she wants to meet up again, maybe even play some music together(!), before I leave.

...These are some of the things that have been happening in my life.

I write all this not at all meaning to gloat outwardly towards others, but more trying to remind inwardly towards myself how very extraordinary my time here has been. (And also that, no, I haven't been doing "nothing.")

Remember how I came here with all those naive imaginings that, simply by being here, I would fall into hanging out with musicians I love and admire? And I had to keep reminding myself that, no, real life doesn't work like that?

Well, it turns out – in Iceland, at least – life does work like that. It's stunning and humbling.

Far more than the "famous people/people-I've-admired-from-afar" aspect though, and more even than the "music/people-I-admire-for-their-music" aspect, what amazes me most through all of this is the people I've met – their openness, kindness and incredible hospitality. ("Incredible" in the literal sense of the word, as in, describing something that's almost beyond the bounds of what I can believe is true.)

This is a word I don't usually use (because it's so often applied with religious connotations, and that's not what I mean at all) but it's the most fitting way I can think to put it: Being here in Iceland, I feel so blessed.

Monday, August 18, 2014

Climate Assimilation

Today, as I was walking along Reykjavík's main shopping street on a sunny, slightly windy, but unusually warm (for Reykjavík) afternoon, wearing a light sweater but not a coat, a passing American tourist, arms clenched tightly around his chest, muttered at me, "How are you not cold?"

Have I become Icelandic??

Monday, August 4, 2014

Pictures from the South

And rounding out my nearly-month-long ramble around the entire country of Iceland, I did a rather quick pass through the south: To Jökuksárlón, where sky-blue icebergs calve off a glacier and drift into the open ocean; to Skaftafell to say hello to a friendly neighborhood glacier; taking the bus route that goes inland on a dirt track through the highlands around one of the major glaciers, to see a bit of Iceland's interior; and hiking in stunning Landmannalaugar. Check it out here:

ÍSLAND: South / Interior

Saturday, August 2, 2014

Monday, July 28, 2014

Pictures from the North

Pictures from northern Iceland: Dalvík (a tiny town I only meant to pass through, but was so charmed I stayed several extra days), Grímsey (a beautiful little island directly on the Arctic Circle), Akureyri (a lovely small town that's in fact Iceland's second largest) and Myvatn (an area with all the cool geothermal stuff: hot springs, boiling mud, volcanic craters, old lava fields...)

ÍSLAND: North

Sunday, July 27, 2014

In Which Iceland Is Literally a Village

I arrived here in Borgarfjörður eystri, a truly tiny village (population about 100, though the numbers cited vary) tucked away inside a fjord accessible only by a steep, winding road around a mountain, literally the very furthest point you can drive from Reykjavík... and ran into someone I know.

Yes, in this country where there are only five people total that I can count as "friends" by even the most generous definition of the word (two Couchsurfing acquaintances from three years ago plus three festival acquaintances from earlier this month) – I walked into the town's only bar and saw someone I know!

(I suppose it shouldn't really have come as a surprise, since I came here for a wonderful music festival called Bræðslan, which was recommended to me by this friend I made at the Rauðasandur Festival, so it really could have occurred to me that if he likes this festival enough to recommend it, he'd likely be coming too. Still, though.)

So: I came here expecting to spend another string of solitary days mostly at the fringes of things, and instead on my very first evening I ended up being one of the last five people who stayed up talking and playing a silly card game, and closing down the bar/restaurant/concert venue at 5 a.m. (Bars in Iceland are supposed to close at 1 a.m., so as these guys pointed out to me, it helps to know the owners!)

Life is good in Borgarfjörður eystri.

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Tiny Town, Iceland

One of the things I'm coming to love about Iceland is how most of it is these tiny, tiny, tiny towns tucked away in a fjord only accessible by a twisty dirt road and at least an hour away from the next proper town... and yet they each seem to have just enough of everything you need.

Each one has its gas station, a small grocery store, at least one restaurant/café where folks hang out, and of course the all-important community center for cultural events, which can be a big, fancy complex in a big town, or in a small town it might be a simple hall that also doubles as the village school.

And with these just-enough resources in hand, Icelanders nonchalantly set about putting together concerts, festivals, exhibitions and all manner of creative things. Because if there's one thing an Icelander seems to be constitutionally incapable of, it's being not creative.

As an example, here's "downtown" on Grímsey island: The sole restaurant (surprisingly good), a tiny supermarket and an even tinier gas station that's basically just a shed with a pump out front. An Icelandic town pared down to the essentials:


Other things I love: Cozy cafés run on a standard model of serve-your-own soup-and-bread plus serve-your-own coffee-or-tea. A very relaxed set-up, and most places are stunningly chill about a traveler coming and lingering over a cup of coffee to use the wi-fi for a while.

Here's my absolute favorite café so far, a place called Gísli Eiríkur Helgi (named after three brothers from an old legend) in the town of Dalvík in northern Iceland. I also watched a couple World Cup games here, in a back room with an amusing mixed crowd of Icelanders and Germans:

(They made me a vegetarian option! Those folks are awesome.)

And of course I love the nature, the nature, the nature. Fjords and mountains, lava fields and hot springs and steam rising out of the ground. I'll try to put some more pictures together soon.

But meanwhile, speaking of paring life down to the essentials...

As for me? Give me a cup of coffee (one of those twin fuels of Iceland! gas for the cars and coffee for the people, both going non-stop at all hours) and a place to plug in the computer (because, yes, I'm doing this weird combined kind of travel where I'm partly hiking in the mountains, but partly sitting in cafés writing and stuff) and, hey, how about a view of the fjord to one side and a band warming up for tonight's concert on the other?

In other words, greetings from Borgarfjörður eystri, in the East Fjords, in the days just before this town of 100 or so residents welcomes thousands of guests for a music festival.

Saturday, July 12, 2014

Rauðasandur – the Red Sand Festival

Rauðasandur! A little music festival in a remote bit of the West Fjords of Iceland, that I'd been dreaming about for at least two years. But planning a trip to Iceland just to go to one festival would be crazy.

But if you happen to be in Iceland anyway...

Trying to figure out how to get to the festival (it's so remote that buses don't run there) was a lesson in learning to be as last-minute as an Icelander – not my natural mode, to say the least. I don't think I've ever met a group as categorically last-minute in their life planning as the Icelandic people! (One Icelander I talked to linked this to their catastrophic financial crash of a few years ago – Icelanders are amazing at coming together to help each other after a crisis, she said, but not so good at sparing a thought for how to avert the crisis in the first place.)

Nonetheless, by some miracle of good luck, I managed to land a ride north to the festival from Reykjavík with a laconic guy named Þórður (pronounced Thor-thur) – to me, he seemed the epitome of the old Icelandic fisherman type – quiet and implacable, but kind-hearted in that Icelandic way where they don't even notice that what they're doing is above and beyond – like stopping to help a stranded tourist whose rental car had broken down in the rain in a remote fjord. Also in the same car were Arndís (bizarrely, it's pronounced more like "Ard-nis") and her boyfriend Koosha. The two of them were fantastically open and fun (Arndís may be the least Icelandic Icelander I've met, in that respect!) and they ended up being my constant companions through the weekend. The music at the festival was enjoyable and all, but the real magic was in the friendships forged in just those four days.

The location for Rauðasandur (literally "Red Sand") is a stunning red-sand beach at the foot of a steep cliff exposed directly to the Atlantic and all the wild weather that entails. Of the festival's three nights, we actually spent two in nearby (by which I mean a 40-minute drive away) Patreksfjörður, which is more sheltered, inside a fjord. In fact, I was woken up on Saturday by Arndís shaking me and saying we had to break camp immediately and move back to Patreksfjörður, because a storm was coming in. The wind was so strong, it bent two of the poles of my tent as we were taking it down! I've never woken up, taken down a tent and packed up all my belongings faster.

Rauðasandur: Some kind of magical mix of stunning location (seriously, just the skies over the sea at Rauðasandur I could try forever to describe) + a whimsical sampler of Icelandic music, from electronic to folk to reggae and everything in between + friendships forged in the enjoyable kind of "adversity," the kind that involves rolling with the weather-changing punches and having all the more fun for it. 

I could write pages and pages and pages about the experience that was Rauðasandur, but I'll let the pictures tell the story:
ÍSLAND: Rauðasandur

Monday, July 7, 2014

The Great Hiatus Begins

Hello there, world. It's been a while! I no longer have the slightest idea how to summarize the last half year of my life. Let's try bullet points:

• In December, with three weeks' notice, my main translation client – the one that formed the backbone of my income for the last six years – announces it's axing its English-language offerings and no longer needs freelancers as of January 1. Merry Christmas!

• Cue panic and existential angst.

• The months January–June: Various projects for other clients, periodic attempts to think about "what comes next," more panic and angst, existential questioning of whether I want to keep doing what I'm doing or whether this might be an opportunity to try something new, gradually coalescing plans to take a serious break from working to clear my head before even trying to sort out the future. Alarming realization that I haven't taken a true, complete vacation – the kind where I don't bring my laptop along and work at least part of the time – in...actually, I've lost track of how long. People ask about my specific plans for said work break, to which I tend to say, I don't know! I don't know! Maybe Iceland??

• While also seeing various friends visiting from out of town, finishing up some last paid work, trying to complete a 50-page novel excerpt in time for a submissions deadline, helping a sick friend, having root canal myself, getting my apartment ready to sublet for the summer and assembling all the camping gear I never got around to buying in eight years in Germany, I finally book a flight to Iceland. It's open-ended. No set return date, just two weddings I know I need to be back in Germany for at the end of the summer. It's terrifying, but good.

• Arrival in Reykjavík with naïve dreams of instantly ending up hanging out with all my favorite musicians, because, come on, it's Iceland. It's like a village, but one in which everyone is mind-bogglingly talented.

• Reality, instead, is a very solitary first week spent frantically revising my novel excerpt, barely interacting with other human beings, working all day and all evening and then looking up to find it's almost midnight, even though it looks like 6 p.m., because this is Iceland in summer. (I do see one of my very favorite musicians on the street, just pushing her baby carriage along and chatting with a friend, and I panic and go the other way, because I don't want to be a creepy fan.)

• Novel excerpt DONE. Three (3!) concerts by favorite Icelandic musicians ATTENDED. Ride to extremely remote music festival FOUND. The great adventure BEGINS.

Here are a few pictures of the Reykjavík days; pictures of the Rauðasandur Festival will be coming soon.
ÍSLAND: Reykjavík Days

Thursday, May 29, 2014

Männertag

Today is "Christihimmelfahrt" in Germany – in English, Ascension Day.

A day that I can only assume is, in other countries of the Christian world, a solemn and important religious holiday, in Germany somehow has morphed into... "Männertag" ("Men's Day").

And what do men want to do, apparently, on a day devoted to them?

Drink, of course!

The standard sight on Männertag is a group of men wandering through the countryside, pulling a child's wagon repurposed as a conveyance for all the beer they've brought along, and getting roaringly drunk. Germany doesn't even have a Father's Day – it all gets folded into this, "Men's Day."

Today around 11 a.m., I was walking to the office (despite it being a public holiday, because the freelancer never sleeps...though the freelancer may, I admit, sleep in) and passed one of those old Berliner dive bars that's managed to keep a foothold here despite the terrifying pace of gentrification in my neighborhood.

Being an old Berliner dive bar, and today being Männertag, it was packed with people drinking and singing at the top of their lungs the song "Viva Colonia," the city of Cologne's anthem of drinking and good times; I associate the song with the Carnival season and my time living in the Rhineland area, but apparently anyone in Germany can sing it when they're drinking. (Sample lyrics: "We love our dear God and we're always thirsty!")

Got to the office and laughed with my French colleagues about Männertag; one of them said, Oh, so that's why this morning I saw an otherwise normal-looking guy standing around on the street with a beer in the middle of the morning.

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Berlin ist ein Dorf

Here's how small Berlin – or at least the expat/journalist/fellowship-recipient community in Berlin – can be:

I'm looking to sublet my spot in my office share, so I wrote a post to an English-speaking academics' listserv and got a bunch of responses. The first guy to actually make a specific appointment and show up to look at the office (let's call him "S.") was a journalist, but someone I don't know.

But he showed up with a friend of his... who I know! We'll call her E.; we met through friends a few months ago and she even came to my Chanukah party, but that was just before she had a baby, so she understandably dropped off the radar for a while. We were both excited and pleased to have stumbled across each other again.

We tried to explain to S., the journalist, how we knew each other – we were both at a dinner at our mutual friend J.'s house... except in truth I don't even know J. all that well, it's more that she's a friend of my friend R., and R. had invited me along...

"Oh, wait," S. said. "Is that the R. who dated P.? I know P. Through journalist stuff."

Yes. It circled all the way back around.

"Berlin ist ein Dorf," as the saying goes – Berlin is a village.


Friday, April 18, 2014

Spring Ragbag – A Few Culture Notes

Miscellaneous observations each too small to need their own post:


• Helping a friend (German) and her boyfriend (Dutch) move, I was helping the boyfriend get all the boxes optimally organized inside the moving van – and speaking English together rather than German, because he lived in England for years and his English is flawless – when he looked at one box and asked, baffled, "Why is it bad?"

We looked at the box he was indicating, and both realized the word written on it was indeed "Bad" ...as in "bathroom," in German.

Such fun to be had with that particular false cognate! Like a bathroom fixtures store near me with a huge sign that reads "BAD IDEEN" – looks like it means "bad ideas," but actually just translates to "ideas for the bathroom."

I similarly snorted over a beer advertisement in the U-Bahn at Alexanderplatz reading, "Die Nacht Wird Hell" – it means "the night will be bright" or "the night grows bright," but it kind of looks like it's saying the night will be hell.


• Some friends recently threw a baby shower for a friend who's about to have a baby (all involved were North Americans). A couple days before it, I was walking with a friend (French) and her boyfriend (German), and the French friend and I were laughing about how you would normally never have a baby shower in Germany; Germans are superstitious about doing anything ahead of the fact, and won't even wish each other happy birthday a day early because it's "bad luck."

At this point, her German boyfriend broke in to ask who the baby shower we were talking about was for; when told who it was (a mutual friend whose due date is later this month), he said in honest bafflement, "Aber sie hat noch kein Baby." ("But she doesn't have a baby yet.")

And that right there, my friends, is why you will never attend a German baby shower.


• I met the same friends (the French and German couple) at an Italian-style café (or trattoria? or osteria? I'm trying, but I honestly can't sort out all the different Italian terms for eating establishments!) near where they live.

My German friend pointed out that this place was run mostly in the Italian style, with the emphasis  on the big deli display case and the shelves of food products, but with concessions to German-style café culture, in the form of more table seating. In Italy, the focus would be almost entirely on the deli case and the delicacies within; in Germany the focus is on the comfortable space to sit and linger; so this place had a bit of both.

And I realized, hey, that's true – as much as we Americans might have this image of Italians/French/southern-Europeans-in-general lingering over coffees on sidewalk cafés, in my actual experience, people in Italy tend to order a shot of espresso, knock it back while standing at the bar, then continue on their way. This seems to be true in France as well (I remember walking along a street in Paris and seeing people leaving a café with tiny espresso-sized to-go cups, which is just adorable) and it also ties in with the Spanish (and Venetian) culture of standing around ordering drinks-that-also-come-with-small-dishes-of-tapas, rather than sitting down for a meal and then also ordering a drink with it.

That hanging-out-over-coffee culture that I appreciate so much here (no one will ever rush you out or give you the bill as a subtle hint to leave; it's completely acceptable to hang out, chatting over coffee, for hours, because the whole point of a café is that it's somewhere you go to chat and hang out) and which I think of as being a "European" thing – perhaps it's not actually a European thing but a German thing, at least in the form in which I know it. (Though, yes, Italy is absolutely the source of the "slow foods" movement, of the idea of placing value on taking time over good food and good company – so maybe that philosophy applies in some contexts and not others?)

At any rate, my German friend, at least, says we have Austria to thank for the "hanging out over coffee" culture – that's Viennese culture, coffeehouse culture, from a tradition of sitting and discussing philosophy. It's not often I can think of anything I'm specifically grateful to Austria for, so, score one for Austria!


• A couple weekends ago, I went out on a bike ride in the countryside east of Berlin for an afternoon, and on the train back at the end of the day, ended up talking with a Dutch guy who's living in Berlin to build up his start-up company (what else!) and was similarly exploring the countryside. It was fun hearing his perspective as someone who's newly in Germany and only just discovering the cultural differences, and he seemed intrigued to hear my perspective as someone who's been here for a number of years and could confirm or refute some of the things he'd been wondering.

One thing we got to talking about is how environmentally minded Germans are, but often in these very small, obsessive, detail-oriented ways, rather than in a big-picture way. He laughed about the little sign next to the train door that says "on cold days, please close the doors" and joked that he could totally see Germans doing that, making a point of going over and pressing the button to close the doors.

I added the example of, "You don't need this light on, do you?" – Yes, Germans really do sit around in the semi-dark a lot of the time, because they seem to think turning off one lightbulb makes a big difference in their overall electricity consumption.

This is a hard one for me, because I love how much Germans think about the environment. I love that a basic level of environmentalism is simply a given, a building block of the culture, taken for granted. Of course we recycle, and save energy when we can, and ride bicycles and want more green energy. That attitude is one of the biggest things that drew me to this country in the first place.

But at the same time, people are then so very pleased with themselves, patting themselves on the back for doing even the smallest things. I get the sense that people who recycle and turn off the lights when they don't need them think that's it, they're done now – they're the good guys, the environmentalists, they've done their bit to "save the planet" and now they don't have to think about it any further.

And turning off the lights is well and good, but as long as I'm still living in a modern apartment with electricity and gas heating and own a computer and a cell phone and other gadgets and fly in planes and buy really anything at all in plastic packaging (even if I'm going to recycle it afterward) and take hot showers every day, I have no illusions about the overall environmental balance of my existence. And I think Germans tend to forget that, while they're so caught up in the small, obsessive details.


• To counter that with an example of something cool about Germany: the very idea of a "Kur."

That's "cure," I suppose, in the old-fashioned sense of "taking the cure" (picture olden-days posh British people going to Bath for the winter...) Do we even have a word for this in modern day English?

I doubt it, because we don't even really have the concept – it's preventive medicine (gasp!), and the idea is that you go away and take care of your health before a problem becomes acute. A German guy I know (early 50's, perfectly healthy) just went on a week-long "Kur" sponsored by his employer, where they did lots of exercise and outdoorsy stuff, and learned about good nutrition, and even had a couple sessions with a psychologist, just as a routine part of the program. It's then followed up by a once-a-week exercise course once they're back in Berlin.

It's a pilot program sponsored by a retirement pension scheme (either the company's scheme, or the government's, or a mix of both, I wasn't entirely clear on that) and I can only assume the idea is that if you help your employees learn to take care of their health now, then they're less like to end up on long-term sick leave or taking early retirement a few years down the line because of problems that could have been preventable.

Can you imagine that in the US? Where the overarching work culture seems to be: Work until you drop, work no matter how sick you are and no matter how long working-while-sick ends up extending your illness, and by the way you'll be grateful for those measly two weeks of vacation we allow you a year?


• Also. Based on my own rigorous and empirical research, I now present to you the only proven way to not just endure but in fact enjoy a 15-minute wait on line at the grocery store check-out (because Germans panic and rush to the stores to stock up whenever there's a public holiday coming up and the stores are going to be closed for a day):

mp3 player cued up with old episodes of Cabin Pressure. Seriously, guys, the best and most cleverly written radio comedy out there! I could listen to that thing on endless repeat. (And, basically, do.)

Friday, April 4, 2014

When German Is Too Literal

I just learned that the German word for "morgue" is "Leichenschauhaus." It literally means "corpse show house."

Or you can say "Leichenhalle" or "Leichenhaus" ("corpse hall" and "corpse house"). "Leichenkeller" ("corpse basement") is also an option.

My dear German language. I love your literal-mindedness! But sometimes... it's a bit much.

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Bumper Stickers in Berlin

Just now – on a street in Berlin – I passed a Volvo with a German license plate, but also with an NPR bumper sticker, and an Obama '08 bumper sticker. Which prompted in me a natural reaction of:

Am I back home in Ithaca??

(Germans don't really do bumper stickers, for the most part, so their very presence is a dead giveaway that Americans are involved!)

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

April Weather

In German,  changeable spring weather is known as "Aprilwetter" ("April weather") and that's what we're having right now, though it's not quite April yet. Yesterday all day: steady rain alternating with big, soft balls of hail. Today: the sun is shining and every single bush and flowering tree seems to have burst forth overnight.

It must be spring!

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Benedict Cumberbatch and the Sign of Three, No, Four!

Man, all these years and Sesame Street is still the most awesome, with its clever references and culturally hip cameos.

Here, Benedict Cumberbatch (aka "Counterbatch") meets Muppet arch-nemesis "Murray-arty" and counts to three – no, four!


(This might be even better than when Benedict Cumberbatch recited R. Kelly lyrics... Or when he did that award acceptance speech in surf shorts... Or when he photobombed U2 at the Oscars... Come to think of it, that dude is just made of win, isn't he?)

Anyway:

"You win this time, Sherlock!"
"...Benedict."
"You win this time, Benedict Sherlock!"

Monday, March 10, 2014

Man, on Skateboard, with Dog

There's a guy who often whooshes past our office window on a skateboard, with his dog on a leash out front, pulling him down the sidewalk at quite a clip. Both dog and man are hip and artsy looking, and completely blasé about their unusual transportation arrangement. The sight makes us chuckle in appreciation every time.

Berlin's so awesome sometimes!

Saturday, March 8, 2014

Dartmoor, England!

I went to Dartmoor (think Sherlock Holmes in Hound of the Baskervilles, and just generally lovely, wild nature) for a few days of hiking in February (yes, in February) and it was fantastic! Here's an album of pictures that I think captures a little of how dramatic and otherworldly Dartmoor can be – you step onto the moor and you're suddenly a world away from the towns and roads and sheep fields that make up the countryside around it. Plus, being there in February, I caught all kinds of crazy weather, which made the whole trip seem even more dramatic and adventurous. Loved it, would go back in a heartbeat.

Anyway, pictures!
Dartmoor Days

Thursday, March 6, 2014

Finland; or, You Know, Whatever

Just for kicks, I took an online quiz called, "Which European Country Do You Actually Belong In?" I figured, well, as a person who lives in Europe, it would be fun to see what an online quiz had to say... My result:

"You got: Finland. You’re extremely liberal and you love being close to nature. You can sometimes seem a bit aloof, but that’s only because you enjoy silence. You’re honest, reliable, and exceptionally loyal."

Huh, that seems pretty reasonable, actually. ...I'd been thinking more along the lines of finding a cabin in the woods in Maine where I could be totally alone and do nothing but write, or a small place somewhere in the English/Scottish countryside where I could go hiking all the time, or going to Iceland and hanging out with all the musicians, but sure, Finland works too!

(I know I've been silent here for ages; my life is going through work-related upheavals and almost definitely headed for a big change of some sort, so I'm actually semi-serious about the whole cabin-in-the-woods-writing-and-hiking thing... Well, we'll see where that takes me in the next months!)

Anyway. Here's the quiz, if you're curious too.