Tuesday, August 9, 2011

The Faroe Islands

The Faroe Islands were:


(beautiful and very green;)


glorious, long twilight evenings that never quite end, and continually trying to capture these in photographs;

couchsurfing with a Danish singer-songwriter and her boyfriend;


hearing strange, experimental music on classical instruments, and amazing jazz by folk musicians, plus a friend of said musicians showing me pictures of a concert they'd performed earlier in the day: in a cave, in the water, sitting in little boats and wearing life vests;

wandering around the slopes and cliffs, looking out to sea and discovering that it is the universal nature of all sheep to fix me with what I have now determined to call the Sheep Stare;


freelance translating from my netbook at the estimable Café Natur in downtown Tórshavn;

discovering that Tórshavn, the capital, for reasons known only to the Faroese and possibly the Danish, is pronounced not "Tors-hav-n," but "Tor-shawwwwn";


being diligently followed around town by a dog that wore a collar but was on nobody's leash, who would cross the street when I crossed the street, and periodically glance around to make sure I was still with him, as we wandered around town;

meeting a stranger on a ferry and wandering around together on a tiny, adorable island with a tiny, adorable village;


dancing on a Tuesday night with a bunch of young Faroese folks who were pulling out all their crazy moves to 80's pop songs, and when we went to leave, we were motioned toward the back door and ushered out by a guy who made a big production of putting his finger to his lips and encouraging utter silence as we tumbled out into someone's backyard, as if trying to keep the party a secret – even though the pulsing sound of the bar's music could be clearly heard from everywhere around;

discovering I had only 400 kroner left in my wallet (equal to about 5 euros, in a rather pricey country) and when I asked the bartender, "What can I get for 400 kroner?" the guy sitting next to me on a bar stool muttered, "A banana."

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