It's Reykjavík Culture Night! Which, oddly, takes place during the day.
So far I have: eaten a waffle in someone's backyard in a residential neighborhood, sipped Turkish coffee while listening to live Turkish music in the street, watched young folks grooving to techno music exactly as if they were in a club...except it was in broad daylight in the middle of the street, sampled some lovely iced tea being offered by some sort of tea club, dodged lots of little kids darting through the street, marveled at Reykjavík for having yet another all-out delightful whole-town-involved festival, had another waffle in another residential neighborhood (waffles are a theme – and they always come with whipped cream and rhubarb sauce), watched a young boy and a man playing chess, and watched a guy in drag tell fortunes (using playing cards selected from a deck) for a tourist from Spain. About to head back out to catch some more music, including a friend's band.
My favorite event description, from the staggeringly long list of all the events happening around the city today:
Free hugs
Laugavegur 25
14:00 - 15:00
This year marks the 6th year that Hlutverkasetur offers pedestrians free hugs at Reykjavík Culture Night. This event has been well received and we encourage people to come and get a hug. We offer short hugs, long hugs, hugs for one person or two and even group hugs. Come get a hug, it's guaranteed to cheer you up.
Saturday, August 23, 2014
Wednesday, August 20, 2014
Icelandic Politics (the Strange Version)
There's a new political party gaining popularity in Iceland, the "County Party." It's a single-issue group, its sole platform being that Iceland should give up its independence and become an overseas county of Norway.
Sounds like a silly joke, right? But everyone I've talked to about this is dead serious, saying they're sick of financial and political mismanagement, and of nothing much having changed after all, after the financial crisis of 2008.
Do they necessarily want to BE a part of Norway? (And do they even think Norway itself would want them?) No, of course not. But are they serious enough about the issues to vote for a joke party if that's what it takes to get the conversation started? Yeah, I think they are.
It's a strange position to hear espoused by people in such an independent nation. (And I can't help but wonder – would people still support the idea if the proposal were to become a county of Denmark, the country from which Iceland won its independence in 1944? Would that change how they felt about the prospect of being subsumed once again in a more powerful nation?)
As an outsider who doesn't know a whole lot, but has come to care a great deal about this country, I'll really be curious to see where this goes.
Sounds like a silly joke, right? But everyone I've talked to about this is dead serious, saying they're sick of financial and political mismanagement, and of nothing much having changed after all, after the financial crisis of 2008.
Do they necessarily want to BE a part of Norway? (And do they even think Norway itself would want them?) No, of course not. But are they serious enough about the issues to vote for a joke party if that's what it takes to get the conversation started? Yeah, I think they are.
It's a strange position to hear espoused by people in such an independent nation. (And I can't help but wonder – would people still support the idea if the proposal were to become a county of Denmark, the country from which Iceland won its independence in 1944? Would that change how they felt about the prospect of being subsumed once again in a more powerful nation?)
As an outsider who doesn't know a whole lot, but has come to care a great deal about this country, I'll really be curious to see where this goes.
Reykjavík Politics (the Fun Version)
For four years, Reykjavík's mayor was a comedian who ran a joke campaign lampooning the political establishment in the wake of Iceland's catastrophic financial crash, but then accidentally got himself elected for real. By most accounts I've heard, he did a good job as mayor. Here's his awesome campaign video:
Some of my favorites among his joke campaign promises (I believe another one of his campaign promises was to break all of his promises) are "free towels in all Reykjavík swimming pools," "a drug-free parliament by 2020," "tollbooths on the border with Seltjarnarnes" [a tiny peninsula that's basically part of Reykjavík] and "economize – we only need one Santa!" [Icelandic tradition has thirteen "Yule Lads," which are a bit like Santa Claus, and they like to play up this weird Icelandic fact – "we have thirteen Santas!" – to foreigners.]
And of course, because this is tiny Reykjavík, when my friend Arndís was showing me this video, she pointed during one of the scenes of several people singing together and went, "Oh, that's our neighbor!"
Of course it is!
(Edited to add: Because this is Reykjavík, and it's awesome and ridiculously small, I just realized I have four Facebook friends in common with Jón Gnarr, the former mayor.)
Some of my favorites among his joke campaign promises (I believe another one of his campaign promises was to break all of his promises) are "free towels in all Reykjavík swimming pools," "a drug-free parliament by 2020," "tollbooths on the border with Seltjarnarnes" [a tiny peninsula that's basically part of Reykjavík] and "economize – we only need one Santa!" [Icelandic tradition has thirteen "Yule Lads," which are a bit like Santa Claus, and they like to play up this weird Icelandic fact – "we have thirteen Santas!" – to foreigners.]
And of course, because this is tiny Reykjavík, when my friend Arndís was showing me this video, she pointed during one of the scenes of several people singing together and went, "Oh, that's our neighbor!"
Of course it is!
(Edited to add: Because this is Reykjavík, and it's awesome and ridiculously small, I just realized I have four Facebook friends in common with Jón Gnarr, the former mayor.)
In Iceland, Dreams Come True
These last couple weeks (since coming back to Reykjavík after my weeks of traveling around the country), I feel like I've just been hanging around doing a whole lot of nothing, nothing but 1) staying up way too late every night writing, 2) perpetually missing half the next day because I stayed up half the night and 3) flailing around being ineffective and stressed out about all the "things I have to do" even though, for goodness sake, I'm on extended vacation, what are all these things I think I "have to do"?
(Nota bene: Changing locations does not change one's fundamental personality. But I think I knew that already.)
But when I stop and really think about it, here are just some of the things that have in fact happened during that time:
• My wonderful friends Arndís and Koosha, who I got to know at the first of the music festivals I went to, invited me to come stay with them. As in, not just for a night or two, but for as long as I wanted. So all of a sudden I had not only a home in Reykjavík, but also instant awesome housemates to hang out with. Then they offered that I could stay on while they're away traveling for 10 days, to house-sit and look after their cats. So I extended my Iceland sojourn even longer than planned, and finally booked a return flight for August 25th. It'll have been two full months here by the time I leave.
• Three friends from Germany were passing through Reykjavík for one day on their way to a hiking trip in the West Fjords; because of various complications, we weren't able to reach each other by phone or email beforehand, so I just figured, all right, I'll go downtown and walk along the main street until we run into each other. And because this is Reykjavík, it worked!
• I saw the most stunningly beautiful rainbow I have every seen in my LIFE, and I'm telling you, I've seen a lot of rainbows. I stood there with tears running down my face, almost wondering if I was alive or in a dream.
• I reconnected with E., one of my favorite Icelandic musicians, when I went to another of her shows. She knew already I was a fan of hers because I'd gone to one of her concerts when I was in Reykjavík in the beginning of the trip; I'd requested a favorite song, one she hadn't played in a while, and she forgot the lyrics to the second verse and I was able to prompt her from the audience. And I guess that moment really impressed her, to have this person who'd come from so far away and yet knew all the words to her song, because this time she hailed me with great enthusiasm and a hug, and we chatted a bunch.
• At the same concert, which already featured two musicians I like, the two of them mentioned their friend who'd just arrived back to visit from Denmark; when the friend got up and also played a song at the end, I realized, OH, I know this musician! I've heard her stuff and I really like her too! Only in Iceland: You go for one favorite singer and end up accidentally getting three.
• Musician friend E. also invited me to a party at her house, a private party with just her circle of friends. (Yes...one of my favorite musicians invited me to a party at her house?!) They were all unbelievably welcoming to me, this random foreigner in their midst who couldn't follow along in all the conversations in Icelandic. Again and again, I have been floored by people's hospitality here.
• Gay Pride happened! Pride in Reykjavík is the most extraordinary thing, truly an all-encompassing, everybody-is-welcome event, a family festival as well as a day for celebrating LGBTQI pride in all its forms. Like the happiest small town parade you can imagine, with the addition of rainbows all over everything. It was glorious.
• I went away for a few days of hiking, a last bit of time in small-town Iceland and a last hurrah of hitchhiking with lovely people.
• I've also been getting to be friends with other-favorite-Icelandic-musician S., over the course of going to many of his concerts. He's thanked me many times for coming to his shows and bringing such positive energy. I also asked him if I could help out as a volunteer in any way for the Melodica Festival – a wonderful international singer-songwriter/acoustic music festival that started here in Reykjavík and is coming up at the end of August – and he said he'd include me when they finally sat down for a very, very belated planning meeting.
• After two full months of waffling and doubting myself, I finally dared: I wrote an email to one of the musicians I admire most in the world, who's not Icelandic but lives here now, and she wrote back. Who knows whether her schedule will actually end up allowing for it or not, but she suggested meeting up for coffee. (!!)
• As of today I'm part of the organizing committee for the Melodica Festival. The others, of course, have way, way, way more expertise about this particular festival, since they've been doing this for years and know all the ins and outs, but I'm able to bring in my organizing capabilities to help them get on top of the tasks that still need to be done, and that feels really good.
• Musician friend S. also wants to meet up, separately from the festival organizing, and ask for my input on how he can organize/manage his own music career better. (Finally, my organizational skills being put to use again for something other than obsessively over-managing my own life!)
• Musician friend E. is not great about responding to emails, but when I saw her at a concert today, she reiterated that she wants to meet up again, maybe even play some music together(!), before I leave.
...These are some of the things that have been happening in my life.
I write all this not at all meaning to gloat outwardly towards others, but more trying to remind inwardly towards myself how very extraordinary my time here has been. (And also that, no, I haven't been doing "nothing.")
Remember how I came here with all those naive imaginings that, simply by being here, I would fall into hanging out with musicians I love and admire? And I had to keep reminding myself that, no, real life doesn't work like that?
Well, it turns out – in Iceland, at least – life does work like that. It's stunning and humbling.
Far more than the "famous people/people-I've-admired-from-afar" aspect though, and more even than the "music/people-I-admire-for-their-music" aspect, what amazes me most through all of this is the people I've met – their openness, kindness and incredible hospitality. ("Incredible" in the literal sense of the word, as in, describing something that's almost beyond the bounds of what I can believe is true.)
This is a word I don't usually use (because it's so often applied with religious connotations, and that's not what I mean at all) but it's the most fitting way I can think to put it: Being here in Iceland, I feel so blessed.
(Nota bene: Changing locations does not change one's fundamental personality. But I think I knew that already.)
But when I stop and really think about it, here are just some of the things that have in fact happened during that time:
• My wonderful friends Arndís and Koosha, who I got to know at the first of the music festivals I went to, invited me to come stay with them. As in, not just for a night or two, but for as long as I wanted. So all of a sudden I had not only a home in Reykjavík, but also instant awesome housemates to hang out with. Then they offered that I could stay on while they're away traveling for 10 days, to house-sit and look after their cats. So I extended my Iceland sojourn even longer than planned, and finally booked a return flight for August 25th. It'll have been two full months here by the time I leave.
• Three friends from Germany were passing through Reykjavík for one day on their way to a hiking trip in the West Fjords; because of various complications, we weren't able to reach each other by phone or email beforehand, so I just figured, all right, I'll go downtown and walk along the main street until we run into each other. And because this is Reykjavík, it worked!
• I saw the most stunningly beautiful rainbow I have every seen in my LIFE, and I'm telling you, I've seen a lot of rainbows. I stood there with tears running down my face, almost wondering if I was alive or in a dream.
• I reconnected with E., one of my favorite Icelandic musicians, when I went to another of her shows. She knew already I was a fan of hers because I'd gone to one of her concerts when I was in Reykjavík in the beginning of the trip; I'd requested a favorite song, one she hadn't played in a while, and she forgot the lyrics to the second verse and I was able to prompt her from the audience. And I guess that moment really impressed her, to have this person who'd come from so far away and yet knew all the words to her song, because this time she hailed me with great enthusiasm and a hug, and we chatted a bunch.
• At the same concert, which already featured two musicians I like, the two of them mentioned their friend who'd just arrived back to visit from Denmark; when the friend got up and also played a song at the end, I realized, OH, I know this musician! I've heard her stuff and I really like her too! Only in Iceland: You go for one favorite singer and end up accidentally getting three.
• Musician friend E. also invited me to a party at her house, a private party with just her circle of friends. (Yes...one of my favorite musicians invited me to a party at her house?!) They were all unbelievably welcoming to me, this random foreigner in their midst who couldn't follow along in all the conversations in Icelandic. Again and again, I have been floored by people's hospitality here.
• Gay Pride happened! Pride in Reykjavík is the most extraordinary thing, truly an all-encompassing, everybody-is-welcome event, a family festival as well as a day for celebrating LGBTQI pride in all its forms. Like the happiest small town parade you can imagine, with the addition of rainbows all over everything. It was glorious.
• I went away for a few days of hiking, a last bit of time in small-town Iceland and a last hurrah of hitchhiking with lovely people.
• I've also been getting to be friends with other-favorite-Icelandic-musician S., over the course of going to many of his concerts. He's thanked me many times for coming to his shows and bringing such positive energy. I also asked him if I could help out as a volunteer in any way for the Melodica Festival – a wonderful international singer-songwriter/acoustic music festival that started here in Reykjavík and is coming up at the end of August – and he said he'd include me when they finally sat down for a very, very belated planning meeting.
• After two full months of waffling and doubting myself, I finally dared: I wrote an email to one of the musicians I admire most in the world, who's not Icelandic but lives here now, and she wrote back. Who knows whether her schedule will actually end up allowing for it or not, but she suggested meeting up for coffee. (!!)
• As of today I'm part of the organizing committee for the Melodica Festival. The others, of course, have way, way, way more expertise about this particular festival, since they've been doing this for years and know all the ins and outs, but I'm able to bring in my organizing capabilities to help them get on top of the tasks that still need to be done, and that feels really good.
• Musician friend S. also wants to meet up, separately from the festival organizing, and ask for my input on how he can organize/manage his own music career better. (Finally, my organizational skills being put to use again for something other than obsessively over-managing my own life!)
• Musician friend E. is not great about responding to emails, but when I saw her at a concert today, she reiterated that she wants to meet up again, maybe even play some music together(!), before I leave.
...These are some of the things that have been happening in my life.
I write all this not at all meaning to gloat outwardly towards others, but more trying to remind inwardly towards myself how very extraordinary my time here has been. (And also that, no, I haven't been doing "nothing.")
Remember how I came here with all those naive imaginings that, simply by being here, I would fall into hanging out with musicians I love and admire? And I had to keep reminding myself that, no, real life doesn't work like that?
Well, it turns out – in Iceland, at least – life does work like that. It's stunning and humbling.
Far more than the "famous people/people-I've-admired-from-afar" aspect though, and more even than the "music/people-I-admire-for-their-music" aspect, what amazes me most through all of this is the people I've met – their openness, kindness and incredible hospitality. ("Incredible" in the literal sense of the word, as in, describing something that's almost beyond the bounds of what I can believe is true.)
This is a word I don't usually use (because it's so often applied with religious connotations, and that's not what I mean at all) but it's the most fitting way I can think to put it: Being here in Iceland, I feel so blessed.
Monday, August 18, 2014
Climate Assimilation
Today, as I was walking along Reykjavík's main shopping street on a sunny, slightly windy, but unusually warm (for Reykjavík) afternoon, wearing a light sweater but not a coat, a passing American tourist, arms clenched tightly around his chest, muttered at me, "How are you not cold?"
Have I become Icelandic??
Have I become Icelandic??
Monday, August 4, 2014
Pictures from the South
And rounding out my nearly-month-long ramble around the entire country of Iceland, I did a rather quick pass through the south: To Jökuksárlón, where sky-blue icebergs calve off a glacier and drift into the open ocean; to Skaftafell to say hello to a friendly neighborhood glacier; taking the bus route that goes inland on a dirt track through the highlands around one of the major glaciers, to see a bit of Iceland's interior; and hiking in stunning Landmannalaugar. Check it out here:
 |
| ÍSLAND: South / Interior |
Saturday, August 2, 2014
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